Thursday, December 31, 2009

A Decade In My Shoes

In the few hours that remain of this decade, I thought I would share with you a personal recap of the '00s, as seen through my eyes. I've been a student, in some form or another, for 9 of these 10 years, and the one year I wasn't a student was pure misery! As an old classmate once put it, why would you ever stop learning??

The decade started in my parents' basement in Toronto, when the world didn't come to an end because of the Y2K bug. After back-to-back co-ops ("internships", for you non-Canadians) in Hamilton and Waterloo, I spent the second half of 2000 on exchange program at Nanyang Technological University, in Singapore. That was my first experience living more than an hour away from home.

I returned to the University of Waterloo campus in January 2001, for the 3B winter term. That summer, I got my first taste of California, while I was an intern at the Mountain View campus of Microsoft. And eight months after that, I graduated from Waterloo with a degree in Systems Design Engineering. My last three terms at Waterloo were spent living with my close friend Gosia, along with a random mish-mash of other psychotic boys and girls.

At that time, the dot-com bubble had just burst, and many freshly-minted engineers such as myself were having trouble finding work. Graduate school, of course, was the answer. I took a month off to go chill in Barcelona with Adam, and then started on my Master's degree in Electrical Engineering at the University of Toronto. My research was on signal processing for speech recognition applications. I graduated 13 months later, and (after a quick trip to Australia where I learned to scuba dive on the Great Barrier Reef), I moved on to New York City to start my new job as a software consultant on Wall Street. My first night in New York City (ever!) was the Sunday before my first Monday in the office. At parties these days, I can tell my friends about the time I wrote software for the mortgage-backed securities group at Lehman Brothers.

Within just 4 months, I developed a nice, healthy hatred for my job. Infusion was a miserable place to work, run by slave-driving managers. It was a painful reminder to me of just how good I had it as a student. On a snowy Friday evening in November 2003, after an 11pm stint at the office (my boss had the nerve to tell me "oh, it's OK to work late sometimes"), I made the decision to go crawling back to student life, and just nine days later my applications were submitted. That March, I was accepted into the PhD program in Electrical Engineering at Stanford (Caltech and Georgia Tech rejected me), and by June 2004, I was back in California living the student life again.

My first year at Stanford was difficult -- trying to find research funding, living on campus in an engineering grad student dorm, and the torture that was the EE qualifying exam (50% pass rate, fail twice and you get kicked out!). I was lucky enough to land a pair of teaching assistantships in my first two quarters, and pass the quals in my first go. To be fair, I should admit that I only got those TA'ships because of my experiences at U of T and Infusion, and that I passed the quals by only the slimmest of margins. Lessons in humility, to say the least. In any case, after a year of this nonsense, I became quite bitter at the EE department. In protest, I went "across the street" to work under Hector Garcia-Molina in the Computer Science department, and have never looked back since.

In October 2005, I moved off-campus and up to San Francisco, into a 4-bedroom apartment known only as "the Shire" (it was on Hampshire St). The next 2 years living in the Shire were some of my most memorable. Good times, with good friends and great roommates (Tim, Tony, Rory, Julia, Kat, Scott, Anja, Hieu and Abalone). In September 2006, I published my first conference paper as a PhD student, which took me on a trip to Leeds, England, by way of London, the Baltics and Sweden. I spent the summer of 2007 as an intern at Google, doing research on economics and computer security. My work from that summer eventually blossomed into a large portion of my doctoral thesis. In July 2007, I ran my first (and to date, only!) full marathon -- a 26.2-mile course through the hilly streets of San Francisco. It took me just over 5 hours, on an injured knee at that -- probably my proudest accomplishment to date.

That November, just as the word "subprime" was entering the popular lexicon, and on the very same day that I moved out of the Shire, I was offered my current job in Japan. In January 2008, after a month of being homeless spent between Guatemala and Toronto, I moved into an apartment just two blocks away from the Shire, with 3 other Stanford grad students. I eventually accepted the job in Japan, but over the next few months had to delay my start date repeatedly because I hadn't yet finished up my PhD. Then, soon after the collapse of Lehman Brothers, with my job offer in jeopardy, I decided to take a leave of absence from Stanford to start working in Tokyo. After 3 weeks in London waiting for my Japanese work visa, I spent that New Year's Eve in China, having a drink atop the Marriott in Shanghai.

That brings us, roughly, to the present. 2009 has been an up-and-down year, in many ways -- working long hours, my sister's wedding, meeting new people in Tokyo, learning Japanese and slowly grinding through my thesis (you can poke around this blog for more details on the past year). Tokyo is the first place I've ever had my own apartment, without any roommates. Work on my thesis has been moving slowly in the limited free time that I have, and the tentative plan is to defend early next year.

We are living through curious times. 10 years from now, the world will be a very different place, geopolitically and otherwise. To paraphrase what a smart man recently said to me, it is hard enough to understand what is going on around you right now, let alone trying to predict the future.

With all that could go awry in life, take time at the dawn of a new decade to appreciate what has gone right for you. Good night, good luck, and happy new decade!

(Bridge School Benefit concert, October 2007.)

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Emperor's Day

In Japan, the reigning Emperor's birthday (currently Emperor Akihito, born December 23rd, 1933) is taken as a national holiday (tenno tanjyoubi).

I had a pretty active day, including a visit to the imperial palace to give my birthday wishes, running-shoe shopping and time spent with some good food and good friends.

The bad news is that December 24 and 25 are not holidays here i.e., I have to go to work. Sigh.

A view of the imperial palace grounds.

Waiting eagerly for the Emperor to make his appearance.

Emperor Akihito addressing the crowd. I couldn't understand what he said, but I imagine he was happy that we were there.

This guy was having an even bigger day than I was.

The view from atop Yebisu Garden Place. That's Ebisu and Shibuya in the foreground and Shinjuku off in the distance.

Mochi topped with yuzu miso. Yum.

Monday, November 30, 2009

November

It's now officially cold in Tokyo. Cold enough that I can finally start using that old electric carpet that I picked up back in March. I've been killing huge amounts of time sprawled out on this thing (I'm sitting on it right now). It's just that heavenly. If you ever see one of these for sale, buy it. You can just thank me later. Oh, the simple pleasures in life.

It's been an up-and-down month. My trip back to Canada was great, much more relaxed than the trip in June. Got to see a lot of friends, and scored a cheap ticket, too -- $700 return, direct! The weather was much nicer than it would've been at Christmas time (I've gotten soft). I even went to a great little Halloween party with my sister and her husband. I've spent pretty much the rest of November at work, which may explain the dearth of interesting things for me to post about here. For reasons that I won't bore you with, this has turned out to be the busiest month of this year. The glimmer of home is that December, by construction, will have to be slower. December starts tomorrow. Sweet.

I threw a small party at my place two Saturdays ago, which was a bit overdue, I think. I have a entire room in my apartment that goes basically unused. The only time I use it is when I have guests, which hadn't happened in a while (of course, with the electric carpet, I think I'll be spending a lot more time in here). Good times. I need more local friends that don't disappear at last train.

December is looking up. I'm coming off a great weekend, spent with good friends and good live music. I finally made a trip down to Kamakura this weekend (most people tend do that in their first week here). They have a beach and a big Buddha in Kamakura. Not nearly as big as the one in Hong Kong, but still pretty big, and this one is 700 years older.

On a side note, thanks to everyone who remembered my birthday without Facebook's help. Also, my first day on the job was exactly one year ago last Tuesday. My , how time flies by.

Halloween / 40th birthday party in Toronto. Send the kids to the neighbours, I'm coming home loaded.

That's my Mom. She sends text messages now.

Me, Geenie and Tatsuya....

...and a few other good friends, hanging out in my apartment.

Strolling through Ginza on a holiday Monday afternoon.

The big Buddha (daibutsu, 大仏) in Kamakura.

Monday, October 26, 2009

Hong Kong

Returned last Monday from a 9-day trip to Hong Kong. I arrived in HK for the "Sports Day" long weekend, worked Tuesday through Friday, and then spent the weekend after in HK as well. Caught up with Winnie, Tony, Macy and Christine, some of whom I haven't see in 5+ years.

I really lucked out with the timing of my trip. I was staying with my grad school buddy Alan, who is now a professor at HK Poly U. He was in the process of moving into his shiny new apartment in Hung Hom, which meant that for two weeks he had the keys to both his old and new apartments. Which meant that I had his old apartment all to myself for most of the week. With an unobstructed view of Hong Kong island. Sweet.

Hong Kong is far more scenic than the stock photos of the skyline let on (the HK skyline is one of the most picturesque anywhere, so it's understandable, I guess). I was also just in time to tag along for a weekend trip to Macau with Alan and friends. Fact of the day: As of 2 years ago, more money was gambled in Macau than in Las Vegas. Caught the red-eye back in to Haneda on Monday morning, so I could maximize HK-time. Work on Monday sucked.

In other news, I'm going to Canada this Friday, for a week. Had an amazing all-tofu dinner in Ebisu last night. That's all for now.

Saturday afternoon in Mong Kok.

In a cable car...

...en route to the Tian Tin Buddha statue.

A view of Hong Kong island by day, taken from the "Avenue of Stars" in Kowloon.

And, by night.

Some famous dessert, at some famous shop, in some famous neighbourhood. (Alan, can I get a little help here?)

The Grand Lisboa casino, Macau. On our way to the fish tank.

Outside the restaurant, after our massive Chinese vegetarian feast. My last meal in Hong Kong before hopping on a flight back to Tokyo.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Seoul

Just got back to Tokyo yesterday after a 10-day trip to Seoul, Korea. I was couch surfing with Yong and Jamaica (of San Francisco warehouse fame), who have been there for the past two years. At first, I thought I would get out of Seoul for a bit, and visit other parts of the country. But after the first day hangin' with Y and J, I decided instead to just chill out in Seoul the entire time. I spent the week sleeping in, wandering about town, and just eating really good food everyday. Y and J are really plugged into the Seoul art scene (they are both artists, and both have teaching jobs), so I also got a glimpse of a "sub-culture" that I would never have otherwise.

Seoul really feels like somewhere halfway between China and Tokyo (I'm tempted to say Japan, but I haven't really ventured too far beyond Tokyo). Seoul is cleaner, hipper and less chaotic than China, but not as hyper-perfect as Tokyo can be. Possibly a flash-forward to what Shanghai will be like in 10 years. They dress like the Chinese, but like the Japanese they avoid eye contact with strangers. Seoul is affordable for travelers, very much unlike Japan. The food was to die for, even for a vegetarian. It seems a bit weird to me that Seoul isn't more of a "destination city".

On Friday, I went on a tour to Panmunjom, in the "demilitarized zone" (DMZ) between South and North Korea. The tour itself was a lot of kitschy build-up and drama, but underwhelming for the most part. But I did learn a lot more about the modern history of Korea. Setting aside the US' childish demonization of the North, the story of the past 100 years leading to where Korea is today is just heartbreaking (no thanks to the Japanese either, mind you). Seoul is just 40 km from the North-South border, and Pyongyang is just 200 km beyond that. That's less than the distance between New York and Boston. Yet, because of an arbitrary border drawn up by some trigger-happy army guy (i.e., not a Korean), thousands of families have been torn apart, cutoff from their relatives for almost 60 years now.

The most memorable and sombre moment of the past week was over dinner, when our friend Sung Gul told us how he dreamt of "one Korea".

The view from Y and J's apartment, overlooking Dongdaemun.

Saturday afternoon at a cafe in Samcheongdong, one Seoul's art gallery districts.

A vegetarian bibimbap (I think) under a tent/food stall in Dongdaemun market, before our Sunday afternoon hike. Deliciousness.

Gyoengbokgung palace. I visited here almost 9 years ago, on a stopover from Singapore back to Canada. How times do change.

Post-gallery-opening feast on Wednesday, with Soo and the Boda crew. The woman on the left was the artist whose work was on display.

At a ballgame on Thursday night, Samsung Lions vs. Doosan Bears. The Bears had a 5-run 1st inning, and held on for the win, much to our chagrin.

If I had tried to defect to North Korea, that guy would have stopped me.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

More summertime fun

Hmm, it's been three huge weekends in a row, since I last posted here. Had a Saturday ticket to Summer Sonic. Rocked out to the Ting Tings, Matisyahu, and Lady Gaga. Metronomy turned out to be the best show of the day. The following weekend was Robin and Dakai's debut gig. I can best describe their music as instrumental space rock. Very Pink Floyd-esque at times. Chased it with a long-awaited trip to the beach on Sunday.

Just this past weekend was the Azabu Juban omatsuri (festival). Summer street festivals are huge in Japan, and this is one of Japan's biggest. Right in my backyard, too, which was both good and bad. Thousands of jimbei- and yukata-wearing Japanese people flooded my neighbourhood all weekend, fiending after beers and grilled street eats. Went to see the "lifesize" Gundamu (ガンダム) in Odaiba on Sunday. Google it. It was another "only in Japan" moment, to be sure.

The temperature and humidity in Tokyo has dropped off quite a bit over the last 3-4 days. Although this should make me happy, I'm not super thrilled, because it is a sign that the summer is coming to an end.

The Ting Tings, owning the crowd at Summer Sonic.

Ayako, Alice and me, waiting for Lady Gaga.

Sunset at Zushi beach.

Anand, on his fourth trip to Tokyo since I've been here! My other friends, are you taking notes?

People in bird suits dancing on stage, hooray!

Gundamu in Odaiba. Thousands of grown adults fawning over a giant toy robot.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Summertime

I don't have too much new to say. Weekdays are a wash because I'm at work pretty much all the time. Weekends fly by, and then it's Monday again. I've fallen into a rhythm. But I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing.

Summer in Tokyo has been disgustingly humid. It takes me just ten minutes to walk to work, yet I still manage to break a sweat. Ugh. But when I ask the locals, I'm always told that it's been a mild summer, and that its usually much worse. Hooray for climate change!

Peter K was here last weekend on a business trip through Tokyo and Taiwan. Did my best to show him a good time. Going to Summersonic in Chiba this Saturday. I'm most excited about the Cokehead Hipsters.

Picnicking in Showa Kinen park two weekends ago, before the fireworks show at night. The Japanese word for fireworks, 花火, literally means "flower fire".

Some guy brought his pet lizard to the park.

This picture is overexposed, but for some reason I really like it. Taken during a Sunday afternoon wander through Meiji Jingu.

I don't remember what was so funny. We did have delicious Indian food at Masala Hut soon afterwards, though.

On a Thursday evening bike ride with the Tokyo Design Flow crew. Maybe more on this later.

Use your imagination.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Kyoto and Fuji-san

Dan and Timmy K were in town on separate business trips, which were good excuses for weekend trips out of Tokyo. I've been itching to get outta town more often, as you know.

Tim and I spent the July 4-5 weekend in Kyoto, which is a 7-hour bus ride from Tokyo, or a 2-hour ride on the shinkansen. Kyoto is to Tokyo, what Beijing is to Shanghai (that's probably not the best analogy). It felt far more like "real Japan" than Tokyo, and I suppose there are good historical reasons for that. Temples, shrines and castles everywhere you look. And at night, the kids just hang out in yukatas and drink by the river banks. Very nice, relaxed feel compared to the insanity of Tokyo. It was a bit of a rushed trip, though. A weekend is nowhere near enough time to see all of Kyoto. I definitely intend to head back sometime soon.

The weekend after, Dan flew in for a weekend stopover in Tokyo, en route from China to Lebanon (??). We stayed out all night on Friday, slept all day Saturday, and headed out to Mount Fuji early Saturday evening. We started the climb at 10:30pm, caught sunrise 6 hours later at 4:30am, made it to the summit by 5am, and were back down by 9am. There is such a huge human traffic jam once you get near the summit (see photo below), that it takes more than an hour just to climb the last 100-200m. We were back in Tokyo that afternoon, barely in time for Tim to make his 4pm flight, and Dan to catch his 6pm. I slept about 14 hours that night, and could barely walk for the next two days. They say that say a wise man climbs Fuji once, and only a fool climbs twice (I don't know who "they" are). One of the most epic weekends in recent memory.

Hmm, what else? My friends all seem to be leaving Tokyo at the same time, which is a bummer. Paulette, Arnab and Gustav, all within the span of two weeks. They all claim they'll be back, though. It's a long weekend ("Marine Day", don't ask), so I'm gonna get off my laptop and go get some sun.

Sanjusangen-do, Kyoto. Conveniently situated next to the Hyatt Regency.

Kiyomizu-Dera, Kyoto.

Cafe & Restaurant White Lover, Kyoto. Something gets lost in translation, I'm sure.

Late Friday night / early Saturday morning in Tokyo. It's cool, they're just taking a breather while waiting for the first train home.

At a rest stop, about two hours into the climb. Yeah, I wear my sunglasses at night.

Human traffic jam.

Sunrise atop Fuji. Stunning.

Victory! The three of us are a lot unhappier than we look in this picture. It's cold, windy and our legs hate us. And a 3-hour descent lies ahead.

Monday, July 6, 2009

June

It's July already? June just flew by, didn't it? Let's see, I took a trip to Canada, passed two JSDA exams, caught the flu twice and had a bunch of visitors pass through. My sister's wedding was a blast and a blur at the same time. It was a lot of running around doing "wedding chores", and just getting caught up in the insanity. I barely ate anything all day, but rumour has it that the food was fabulous. Mostly, I remember floating around all day with a big grin on my face.

The June 26-27 weekend was a mostly-unplanned-but-fantastic weekend, too. Went out every night, and met quite a few gaijin who were fluent in Japanese. They seemed to be the gooey core of Tokyo's non-Roppongi gaijin. I like meeting people like that. It gives me hope for gaijin-kind, and something to work towards.

I just got back from a weekend in Kyoto. I'll post pictures once I feel less lazy. The humidity has really descended upon Japan over the last few weeks. Every night feels like an A/C night. People are warning me that it only gets worse. I am afraid.

My sister's wedding day henna do.

The baraat arrives. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baraat)

Gittin' down at the wedding reception. That's my Mom, my sister and her new father-in-law.

Psycho dancer guy at JZ Brat in Shibuya, on Saturday night. I'm told he's a big deal in Japan.

Remnants of a Sunday night thali at Raj Mahal in Roppongi.